The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Fruit in Urban Gardens
Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds form.
This is maybe the last place you expect to find a well-established vineyard. But one local grower has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with plump mauve berries on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of Bristol downtown.
"I've seen people hiding illegal substances or whatever in those bushes," says Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your vines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He has organized a informal group of growers who produce vintage from several hidden urban vineyards nestled in private yards and community plots across the city. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title so far, but the collective's messaging chat is named Grape Expectations.
City Vineyards Around the World
So far, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which features more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of Paris's renowned artistic district neighbourhood and more than three thousand vines overlooking and inside Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in historic wine-producing countries, but has discovered them all over the world, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards assist cities stay more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. They protect open space from development by creating long-term, productive farming plots inside cities," explains the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those created in cities are a product of the soils the vines grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the people who care for the fruit. "Each vintage represents the charm, community, environment and history of a city," notes the spokesperson.
Mystery Polish Grapes
Returning to Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting left in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the precipitation comes, then the birds may take advantage to feast again. "Here we have the mystery Polish variety," he says, as he cleans damaged and mouldy berries from the glistering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they are certainly hardy. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you don't have to spray them with chemicals ... this could be a unique cultivar that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Activities Throughout Bristol
The other members of the collective are also making the most of bright periods between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of Bristol's glistening harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of wine from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from about fifty plants. "I adore the smell of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she says, stopping with a basket of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."
Grant, 52, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her family in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously endured multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to someone else so they continue producing from the soil."
Terraced Vineyards and Natural Winemaking
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated more than 150 plants situated on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, indicating the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a city street."
Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is picking clusters of deep violet dark berries from lines of plants arranged along the cliff-side with the help of her child, Luca. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to streaming service's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She has learned that hobbyists can produce intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for more than £7 a glass in the growing number of establishments focusing on low-processing wines. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can truly create good, natural wine," she states. "It's very fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of producing vintage."
"When I tread the fruit, all the wild yeasts are released from the surfaces and enter the liquid," says the winemaker, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, pips and red liquid. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but commercial producers introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the wild yeast and then add a commercially produced yeast."
Difficult Environments and Creative Solutions
In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to establish her vines, has assembled his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who taught at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a difficult task to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce French-style vintages in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to fungal infections."
"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"
The temperamental local weather is not the only problem faced by winegrowers. The gardener has been compelled to erect a fence on